Paper Bag Floor Images. Paper bag floors are found all over the internet in a variety of styles & colours. They are surprisingly durable considering what they are made of… brown paper. Despite their name, paper bag floors are often constructed using a roll of brown builder’s paper or craft paper, rather than a bunch of recycled brown shopping bags. Perhaps in it’s earliest days paper bag flooring was created by those grocery bags, but these days, people mostly stick to a super cheap, roll of brown kraft or builders paper.
Why attempt this crazy project anyway? There are many reasons as far as I’m concerned. In this article I will cover a few of my top reasons… For me, the low cost hit me right away. You mean I can actually create a floor that looks that good, for that little? Yeah… that was the carrot for me. I had to research this to see if it were really true. Much to my surprise, I was pleasantly convinced that it wasn’t just a myth. Paper bag floors were real, cheap and they looked great. When you consider the low cost of applying these floors… there is nothing that even comes close, unless of course you plan to just slap a coat of paint on plywood… and for most people, that’s a no go.
Right away I was struck by the diversity in the styles that people created. Each floor looked similar, but they had their own personal style. I liked the character that these floors gave. That was a selling piece for me too… usually character comes at a steep price. My paper bag floor, the first attempt, was my entrance… there were old, loose, crappy tiles in my entrance that desperately cried to be torn up. I looked into new tiles and before I knew it that project would have cost me big time. I wasn’t prepared to do that. My paper bag floors, once completed, as well as the two sets of stairs (our home is a split entrance), cost me a whopping $60 in materials (100 sq’ + 12, 4′ step tops). Wow! As of now, that flooring has been in for almost 2 1/2 years and it’s still holding up fantastically. It’s crazy durable. We live in Canada and the winters are unforgiving. Snowy boots are often stomped in on the floors, school bags are tossed on it, equipment bags are thrown on it… and it holds up. We have four children and a multitude of friend traffic that abuse these floors regularly and they are surpassing our expectations, by far.
After the floors in our entrance survived almost a year, without a hitch, my wheels started turning again… I was tired of looking at the hideous, blue, vinyl tiles that were laden all over our lower level since we moved in. This included four bedrooms and a long hall way, about 800 sq.’ in total. I did consider painting them, but I just figured it wouldn’t have the durability & character I was looking for. I really liked my entrance floor but my vision for lower level space included wood… THEN it happened. I started to research and brainstorm how I could create a faux wood floor, with paper. After hours and hours of digging and researching I constructed a plan.
I decided to cut wood planks (out of brown builder paper) 5″ wide, painted a faux wood grain on them (this was actually fun), laid them as I did in my entrance, with the glue, mod podgy mixture. I applied them in a staggered way to simulate wood floors and by golly, it looked dang good. I didn’t stop there, I then stained them to look even more authentic and achieve a deeper tone. Once that dried, I topped it off with 7 coats of water based varathane (don’t freak out… that stuff is water based and it dries wicked fast.). Bam! It was the cherry on top. That stuff smoothed out my creation and gave it the hard finish… they say “diamond hard” finish I was going for.
Now… the flooring downstairs has been in for about a year and a half. They are super cool and many people are surprised it’s created with paper… now don’t get me wrong; I don’t tell everyone that walks in, what they’re standing on. I’m happy they turned out so well, look do good and withstand such high traffic. The cost to install was uber cheap and the durability is uber high so it’s a win/win, two thumbs up… whatever you want to call it… I recommend it.
For floors which are carpeted, you’ll need an action strategy to keep them clean, safe, and looking terrific. Here are five practical tips for carpet maintenance:
1. Make sure the carpet is properly installed. If it is not done correct, it will buckle and wear out a lot more rapidly. Choose patterns and blended colors over a single, solid color, which shows more dirt.
2. Vacuum frequently so dirt will not accumulate. We’ll talk a lot more about vacuums in a moment. When vacuuming isn’t an option, maintain dirt at a minimum by using a sweeper.
3. Place mats at all entrances; about 70 percent of the soil on carpets is brought in by foot traffic from outdoors and in the kitchen. Entrance mats ought to be 12 to 15 feet long; 30 percent of soil is trapped about the first three feet of mat. Needless to say, maintain the mats thoroughly clean, or they’ll only contribute towards the problem.
4. Implement a spot removal plan. Ask the installer and/or manufacturer for the correct technique (scrape, spray, blot, etc.) and items to clean up those unavoidable spills.
5. Clean by extraction. Contract with a professional carpet cleaner to deep-clean and remove any harmful bacteria buildup. Most dining rooms could use this service every other month. To select the vacuum cleaners to care for your carpet, ask yourself these questions: Is the area to become cleaned a large, open area or a small, enclosed space?
Will the vacuum be carried, wheeled, or rolled on a cart to numerous points of use? Should the vacuum be able to dirt and do edge cleaning as well as carpet cleaning? Are there special needs for indoor air quality, noise levels, or power requirements? The most popular commercial-use vacuum cleaners are the conventional upright with one motor and direct airflow and also the two-motor upright with indirect airflow.
The very first refers to a vacuum that draws air and dirt directly from the carpet through the motor fan and into a soft cloth dirt collection bag that is emptied or replaced when full. The single-motor vacuum is known as traditional simply because it is been close to for years and has a single basic use, to vacuum carpets. Its nozzle comes in regular widths of 12 to 16 inches.
The two-motor label identifies those upright vacuums that have a single motor to drive the brush rollers and a second motor to supply suction. These units are called indirect simply because dirt and air must be pulled from the carpet, through the dust bag, and to the suction motor.
These vacuums are sometimes touted as clean-air vacuums simply because the incoming dirt is filtered towards the dirt bag prior to entering the motor. Two-motor models are generally larger than direct-airflow vacuums, use a hardshell case in which the dirt bag fits, can vacuum bare floors too as carpeted areas, and have standard nozzle widths of 14 to 18 inches.
A special version of the two-motor model, known as the wide-area vacuum, has a nozzle width of up to 36 inches, a longer dirt bag, and no hose for attachments. You may see them in use in airports or ballrooms. Don’t bother utilizing ampere or horsepower ratings to determine how much suction or power your vacuum is capable of producing. Instead, ask about its cfm rating.
This may be the number of cubic feet per minute pulled via the 11/4-inch orifice that is the typical size of a vacuum’s nozzle opening. The greater the cfm number, the higher the airflow and, therefore, the much better its cleanup ability. Units that use a higher cfm rating measured at the nozzle opening along with a revolving brush roller will have the best overall capability to clean a carpet.
Like any appliance, vacuums require normal maintenance to keep them working at their peak. They have a distinctive motor noise that you’ll become familiar with, and your first sign of trouble is if the vacuum “sounds different.” This might mean a belt is wearing thin, the brush roller is slipping, the dust bag is full, or the suction motor’s fan ought to be replaced.
A great rule to teach your cleanup crew is: If it isn’t commonly found about the floor, don’t vacuum it up, pick it up. This certainly prevents many vacuum cleaner breakdowns. Needless to say, some producers offer magnetic bars in their vacuums to snag paper clips, thumbtacks, and the like, but this lulls the user into a complacency that usually results within the malfunction from the machine.
When vacuuming isn’t feasible (generally because guests are present), it’s great to have a couple of carpet sweepers. They’re nonmotorized, with rotary blades that spin with the simple action of being pulled or pushed across a floor. Sweepers work on carpet or bare floors, picking up everything from dust, to glass particles, to wet or dry food bits and depositing them all in an internal dustpan.
They are easy to make use of and simple to thoroughly clean. A wet-vacuum capable of sucking up water is a necessity for noncarpeted locations. The appliance of option is the dry steam vapor cleaner. It’s a movable unit that includes a water tank and assortment of hoses, brushes, and wand like attachments for reaching tough-to access spots.
The hot steam (230 to 330 degrees Fahrenheit) cuts through just about any type of kitchen grime and grease. This hardworking machine can thoroughly clean floors, restrooms, ceramic tile walls, desktops, vinyl or plastic chairs, and the grout between tiles. It handily tackles the greasy challenge from the exhaust hood and stainless steel back-panel “walls” of the hot line, steaming the grease and melting it enough to become wiped away with a cloth or squeegee, then mopped and allowed to dry.
Modern commercial floors are cleaned with soap and warm drinking water. The cleanup products are formulated to attack oily, fatty residues and soften them for easier removal. You should choose items that work on both concrete and quarry tile, and use them with the right kinds of cleaning tools. There are floor-scrubbing brushes created to clean grout lines among tiles.
Brushes with epoxy-set nylon bristles and aluminum brackets and handles are a lot more sanitary than cotton mop heads and wooden handles that absorb dirt and foster bacteria growth. An essential fact overlooked in numerous commercial kitchens is that merely mopping a floor isn’t sufficient to thoroughly clean it.
Mopping really spreads the soil around, depositing some into the grouting and most to the mop bucket-to be reapplied to the ground. Consequently, several various sets of brushes, mops, and buckets are required for a better cleaning job. This also prevents cross-contamination among various parts of the restaurant, where different cleaning chemicals might be used.
It’s best to make use of a two-compartment bucket, or separate “wash” and “rinse” buckets. The correct cleaning procedure is:
1. Sweep the ground prior to mopping.
2. Scrub the corners and hard-to-reach places by hand, having a scrub brush.
3. Use a squeegee to move the soiled water from scrubbing into a central area.
4. Use a wet-vacuum to get rid of the water from the floor.
5. Use the mop to touch up the newly wet-vacuumed area.
Mop buckets are offered in sizes from 26 quarts to 44 quarts, with ringers to accommodate mop heads from 8 ounces to 36 ounces. Mop sizes are based on the weight from the cotton used to make the mop strands. What we call a broom for house use is recognized as a ground brush or deck brush in the commercial kitchen.
These are 10 to 12 inches wide and come in several various angles for cleaning flat surfaces, reaching beneath appliances, and cleanup along baseboards; wider (36-inch) brushes are called lobby brushes. Whenever floors are damp-mopped or scrubbed, you must also have an adequate supply of “Danger, Slippery Floor” cones or signage to put out in the wet region.
For dry cleanup, good deck brushes are essential. Some producers provide them with boar’s hair bristles, nicknamed Chinese pig brushes, which are useful for cleanup up fine particles, for example flour and sugar. Synthetic bristles are good for all-around use. Whatever your choice, an angled broom will be most useful to achieve beneath desks and into tight corners.
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